Paver questions, straight answers

We're based in Ammon, Idaho and work throughout eastern Idaho — Idaho Falls, Ammon, Rigby, Shelley, Rexburg, Sugar City, Blackfoot, Pocatello, Ririe, Island Park, Driggs, Tetonia and Salmon. Most of our work sits within about an hour and a half of Idaho Falls, and we take select projects farther out.

It comes down to square footage, the paver you pick, how much excavation and base the site needs, and whether there are walls, steps or drainage involved. You get a firm written number after a free on-site visit — no charge, no obligation. Call 208-206-3889 and we'll usually get out within a few days.

Eleven years of paver and hardscape installation. High Quality Pavers LLC is a licensed, insured Idaho company based in Ammon.

Our workmanship. If an issue arises within two years of project completion that may be related to our work or installation, we inspect it, and if it's determined to be a result of our work we repair it at no additional cost. It does not cover normal wear and tear, misuse, accidents, extreme weather, ground movement or settling outside of our work, alterations by others, or material defects — those fall under the manufacturer's coverage.

We install all paver brands and work with every major supplier. That means we can match an existing installation or spec whatever fits your look and budget, rather than pushing one product line.

Yes, and we're actively growing it. We work with general contractors, landscapers and property managers alongside homeowners, on projects of any size.

We book year-round. The eastern Idaho install season ideally runs from early spring, around March, through fall — booking early gets you a better spot on the schedule.

Yes. On-site estimates are free with no obligation. Reach us any time, seven days a week, at 208-206-3889.

Most residential patios run three to five working days from excavation to cleanup. Larger projects, or ones with walls, steps or drainage work, take longer. We give you a schedule in writing with the price.

Not when the base is built for it. Freeze-thaw movement comes from water trapped in an under-compacted or poorly drained base. Correct excavation depth, compaction in lifts and proper surface slope are what prevent it, and that's where most of the work on a patio actually goes.

Usually. We work with every major supplier rather than one product line, so we can often match or closely blend an existing installation. Send a photo and we'll tell you what's realistic before you commit.

Yes, when the base is built for it. Pavers handle freeze-thaw better than a poured slab because the joints let the surface flex with ground movement rather than cracking. The deciding factor is excavation depth, compaction and drainage below the surface.

Yes. Use a rubber-edged or skid-shoe blade so steel isn't riding directly on the surface. Shovels and snow blowers are no problem at all.

The install typically costs more than a plain concrete pour and less than stamped or coloured decorative concrete. The gap narrows over the life of the driveway, because a damaged paver section is lifted and replaced rather than patched or repoured.

Yes. We remove and haul off the existing slab, then excavate and build the base from there. Demolition and disposal are itemised separately in the written price so you can see what that portion costs.

About four feet if you want two people to walk it side by side comfortably, which is the standard for a main entry. Three feet works for a secondary or garden path. Narrower than that reads as a utility route regardless of the material.

Most front walkways are a one to two day project. Longer runs, or paths that include steps and landings, take a little more.

Yes, and it's much cheaper to do during installation than afterwards. We sleeve conduit under the base while the walkway is open so fixtures can be added whenever you're ready.

It's priced by the square footage of wall face rather than by length, because height drives the reinforcement and drainage work. Grade, soil, access and whether steps are included all move the number. You get a firm written price after a free on-site visit.

Yes. Water building up behind a wall is the most common reason walls fail. Every wall we build gets free-draining aggregate, filter fabric and drain tile routed somewhere the water can actually exit.

It depends on height, on what's above the wall, and on the jurisdiction. Taller walls and walls carrying a surcharge load often require engineering and a permit. We'll tell you where your project falls at the estimate.

Yes, and it's much simpler to build them in from the start than to cut them in later. Bring it up at the estimate if there's any chance you'll want them.

Plan for at least seven feet of clear space between the pit edge and anything behind the seating, so chairs can be pushed back without leaving the paved surface. That's the measurement people most often come up short on.

Wood costs less to build and gives you a real fire. Gas costs more up front and needs a line run, but turns on instantly with no smoke or ash. If gas is a maybe, sleeve the line during installation — retrofitting means reopening the patio.

Often yes. We lift the pavers in the pit area, build the structure, and cut the surrounding courses back in. It's more labour than building it in from the start, but far less disruptive than people expect.

Per square foot installed, generally yes. The material costs more and the fitting is slower because every piece is cut and placed individually rather than following a repeating pattern. We'll price both at the estimate if you want to compare.

Yes, when it's set on a properly built base and the stone is thick enough for its use. Thin stone set on an inadequate base will crack — that's a specification problem rather than a material one.

Frequently, and it often works well. A common approach is a paver field with natural stone steps, treads or a stone veneer on the seat walls. It puts the stone where it's seen and keeps the cost down across the larger areas.

Both. We'll pour a shed pad or a set of steps as a standalone job. We're equally happy to be the concrete portion of a larger hardscape project.

Concrete shrinks as it cures and moves with ground temperature and moisture. Control joints are cut to decide where that cracking happens rather than to prevent it. Proper base preparation, correct joint spacing and reinforcement keep it controlled and cosmetic.

Usually yes, provided the block is sound and the footing can carry the additional weight. We'll assess it at the estimate before quoting.

Every three to five years for most residential surfaces. Driveways and heavily shaded or heavily used areas sit at the shorter end of that range.

Not meaningfully in normal use, even with a wet-look product. Where slip matters most — pool surrounds, steps, entries — a grit additive can be mixed into the sealer.

Yes. It's one of the most common calls we get, and there's no requirement that we installed the original surface.

Late spring through early fall, when you can count on a stretch of dry weather and moderate temperatures for cleaning, drying and curing. September is a popular slot.

Yes. A significant share of our commercial work comes through GCs and landscape companies subbing out the hardscape scope. We're used to working around other trades on an active site.

Yes. Send PDF plans or a written scope to hqualitypavers@gmail.com and we'll come back with a number. A site visit follows before anything is finalised.

Yes. High Quality Pavers LLC is a licensed, insured Idaho company. Certificates are available on request for any project that requires them.

No minimum and no maximum. We bid single entries and multi-building common areas alike.